Tuesday, 13 September 2011

Beyond the Tweed...

... is the translated title of a 19th century travel report by Theodor Fontane. In those days Fontane, Mendelssohn and scores of English gentlemen made the journey north for inspiration and education. Today Scotland offers remote highlands and a unique coastline.

Recently we had friends and collagues making their Scottish journey for different reasons. First we had friends from Spain and we had to take them to Tentsmuir. Here is why:

a beautiful beach.

Time to take the binoculars out.

At work I was visited by a colleague from the US who has supported us with plenty of reagents and advice. And so we used the first day of the visit to tour the North East coast despite the remnants of Hurricane Katia. Here is Dunnottar castle which was our first stop...

... and here St. Cyrus beach with views all the way to Montrose and the Arbroath cliffs.

The view is a little more limited to the North but still very beautiful.


... and here a Scottish portrait.

We then went via Dundee to Braemar from where we followed the Dee to Aberdeen. And after castles, beaches, salmon rivers and Munros the only thing that was missing was the sight of the barely domesticated beast which is known as the highland cattle. Here in its usual lethargic state...

... and here with an expression resembling Janet Leigh in the shower scene of Psycho!

HW

Wednesday, 24 August 2011

España 2011

Hola chicas Y chicos! This year Ana and I decided to have our holidays in Spain. We started in Bilbao and our first sightseeing exercise was the Guggenheim in Bilbao designed by Frank Gehry...

Nice on the outside but boring abstract and postmodern art inside apart from these Jeff Koon's lollipos which added much needed colour to the grey Bilbao light.

After that Pinxtos, the Basque version of Tapas and an inspection of the offspring of one of our friends by everyone. The wee lad has two arms, two legs, one nose and is quiet in bars late so he's most definately alright!

Not to be outdone by the big city, a bodega in Rioja decided to build a Gehry place for some pompous individuals. The building is nice...

... the wine making near perfect...

... and the end product excellent. Buy Rioja! Time to head to Galicia on the West coast and to the beach. The only snag is that the water is not much warmer than Scottish waters...

... but the seafood is excellent. Scots awake, all this can be eaten!

The next stop was Santiago de Compostela, the end point of the pilgrims path. The cathedral is the finish line. Made from pink Granite, it would do Aberdeen proud.

Here some pilgrims on the place in front of the entrance.

In the evening we attended an evening concert by students from the local University. The Spanish equivalent of the Scottish ceilidh.

The next day we went to the West coast and climbed a granite hill near the fake most westerly part of Spain, Finisterre. Here is Ana on the top with a view to the John O'Groats of the great Iberian country. The only snag is that the real most Westerly part is to the North.

After that some time on the windy beach with exceptionally cold water. It is not often that a wetsuit is not enough.

The next day we went to Asturias. On the way we stopped at the beach of the cathedrals. I wish I could have bouldered there but the life guars were like the bouncers in front of the most fashionable Mancunian club and thus I was just proceeding with the self-roasting process.

We reached Llanes in the holy land that is Asturias to meet Ana's University friends. A lobster-paella was cooked by Jose with my humble assistance.

Scots wahae, awake! This can be eaten and is rather tasty and it is in Scottish waters!

Good sea cliffs near Llanes.

The cocaine of Asturias is Fabada: beans cooked with chorizo and morzilla plus some other porky fat. It is sooooooo good.



One of the best things to do in Northern Spain is to paddle down 15 km from Ariondas in a canoe. We met Ana and Peter + kids and had a go. It is such good fun and good value for money given that it is quite a distance. Here is team one...

... and here is team two.

After that Leon via the Picos de Europa with some fantastic limestone climbing potential. The Spanish dolomites. Back in Leon, Ana's town, we had to visit the embutido van during the market. The advertisement is far more sophisticated than the drab Tesco in Scotland: first some ham, then some cheeze and finally some wine from one of the leather squeeze thingies (do not wear anything white is the tip of the day!). After that buy half a chorizo.

Leon is on the camino de Santiago (translate now!) and the cathedral is the highlight of the town.

But it also has a building designed by Gaudi (on the left).

Our friends have a finca outside the city where we enjoyed sardines, summer food.

The special thing about Leon is that some tapas come free with each drink. This is what we got for EUR 4.80 (I think): two small bear, one larger beer, one wine, four bread with Manjega cheese, ham, chorizo and lomo (cow's ham). In Aberdeen the cheese alone would be £4.80 in La Tasca! Leon is a secret tip for every Iberian traveler.

A 3 h trip by bus to Mardrid, where the pope, who attended a youth fest (a kind of catholic T in the park), had to endure some proper heat.

HW

Tuesday, 22 March 2011

Light of the North: from Dundee to Aberdeen

These photos are for Declan Lunny, who now lives in Singapore.

I live on the East Coast of Scotland and stay in Dundee at weekends and Aberdeen during the week. Here are some photos from the both ends and the bit in-between. I start in St. Andrews on the beach with the golf club behind.

No need to explain more. Just open 'Hello' and the equivalent in any other country at the time of the Royal wedding and it'll be in there. A bit further north but still on the south bank of the river Tay is one of the favourite places of mine: Tentsmuir forest. No better place to run.

Here a bit more zoomed out from the hill above Tayport.

Somewhere on these beaches is a colony of seals.

Here they are photographed with a 300 m zoom...

... and here on an overcast day.

More seals.

On the south bank of the Tay is Tayport, a place where I have lived for several years. The harbour is below...

... and here is that lighthouse in the Tay that I could see from my bedroom.

Over the water is Dundee, the most underrated city of Scotland and maybe the UK. Desastrous town planning but still the location and people make it.

Here in winter with two oil rigs which are serviced in Dundee.

Here is an oil rig closer.

Further East over the water is Broughty Ferry, where I spend most weekends.

Here in winter with a ship sailing the Tay.

A wee village with a castle...

... and harbour.

Here the castle again ...

... and again...

... and again...

... and again with one of the many hungry swans.

Many swans, as I said, with Tayport in the background.

Eastwards is the beach...

... with affordable housing just behind. Not like Aberdeen.

In spring and autumn, on Mondays, when I drive to Aberdeen, I see the sun rising above the North sea.

In Dundee the law is the place with a view. Here to the east to the mouth of the Tay...

... towards Broughty Ferry...

... or to the west towards Perth.

After a wee drive via Arbroath Montrose and the Montrose basin appears.

With bridges over the river Esk.

Then Lunan bay.

A little bit further north is St. Cyrus Nature reserve.

Another wide, empty beach with Montrose in the distance...

... and then Todhead lighthouse,...

...here close up.

The last larger place before Aberdeen is Stonehaven, a small harbour to the south of the city.

Finally Aberdeen, the centre of the North sea oil with its harbour.

Here in the evening...

... and here even later.


Here on a stormy day.













On the hill to the south the lighthouse...


... and to the north Aberdeen beach.


Further north is Newburgh with the nature reserve on the river Ythan...


... with sand dunes next to the North sea. A good place for a run in the north.


HW